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As long as you always hook up the negative side of your circuit to your tool, it will be unharmed. (If you don't, can I have your stuff?)Īs for grandpa's old tools, electrolysis will not harm them. If you do, just flush with plenty of water and you'll probably live.
ETANK CAST IRON SKIN
Sodium Carbonate is safe, though you should wear gloves and avoid breathing it or getting it on your skin or in your eyes. The electrolyte itself is simply water and some Sodium Carbonate. I've forgotten to unplug mine and reached into the tank to move an anode a couple of times, but it's best to unplug things whenever you're working on things. The 12V DC side of things is safe enough.
![etank cast iron etank cast iron](https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00yeoUKiRGZhkq/Big-Fuel-Tank-Cast-Iron-High-Pressure-Diesel-Water-Pump-Dp30hci.jpg)
Wear rubber gloves, wear eye protection, wear a condom. Also take care to keep cords and plugs in a safe place. You'll also have a big bucket or tank of water nearby, so use your head and make sure that you locate your charger someplace that it's not going to fall into your tank. You will be using a battery charger or other low voltage DC power supply that plugs into 110V AC house current. There are a few things to keep in mind before you get started. A complete electrolysis setup can be made for $25-30, but you probably already have almost everything you need in your garage, shop and basement.Īm I going to blow myself up, get electrocuted, get poisoned, ruin my great great grandfather's vise? It's one of the safest and gentlest processes for rust removal, which is why it is about the only method used by museums for preservation and restoration of iron and steel artifacts.Ĭan I do this in the comfort of my own shop/garage?Ībsolutely! Electrolysis is simple to setup and quite safe as long as you follow a few common sense guidelines. The process affects only the rust and does no harm to any un-rusted underlying metals. Comments, corrections, additions are of course more than welcome.Įlectrolytic Rust Removal (AKA Electrolysis) is a process that uses a low voltage DC current to remove rust from any ferrous metal item. Since it seems to come up very frequently, I thought I'd take a shot at writing a FAQ / How-To guide for using electrolysis to remove rust. Any power tools or media blasting other than a plain water pressure washer will alter the patina of the surface and detract from it's value.Every Thing You Always Wanted to Know About Electrolytic Rust Removal* But Were Afraid to Ask
ETANK CAST IRON FULL
This will retain the full collectible value and still make a daily user. Wipe it as thin as you can get it, and heat it, by the 4th coat, it will start wiping on easier, you can tell you are building up a coating now, and by the 6th coat, it will look like a million bucks! Just keep wiping it each time you apply more for another coat, wipe it like you are trying to wipe off all of the fat as possible, if you leave it shiny, it will mottle up and look like leopard skin, you cannot rush the seasoning, it will bite you in the butt if you try. Then wipe off as much of the fat as you can get off, stick it in a 450F oven upside down for 45mins, use welders gloves or oven mitt, pull it out and wipe it again very thin, stick it back in the oven, repeat this 6x, now your pan is perfectly seasoned and ready for use.ĭon't worry about smearing lard or crisco on wet iron, the water will evaporate right through it when it is heated the first time. When you get it clean, down to bare metal, use dawn and a stainless scrubbee pad, get it real clean and finish with a cold rinse, rapidly wipe off as much of the water as you can, then immediately slather it with lard or crisco all over. If it has any carbon on it, etank should take that off if it isn't too thick, if it is thick use some lye crystals in a lye bath it will eat all of the black gunk. Yes e-tank for cleaning rust, please do not use any power tools. There is a 3M test kit at Home Depot or Lowe's that will tell if lead is present.